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FIRST LOOK: RESORT 2008
Links, the sea, and country club classics combine in resort trends that are a preview of 2008 old-money elegance.


Shells and starfish are the omnipresent motifs when sea life springs up. But this time around more unusual sea critters abound from seahorses, dolphins, octopi, jellyfish, stingrays, and other sea life that previous has been mostly seen on the Discovery channel. Sea life themes are perennial favorites with charms but this time, sea creatures are appearing in high-end and directional lines such as Sevan, one-of-a-kind brooches with rare pearls from Autore, and even a fancy diamond octopus ring from Christian Tse. Look for sea life shapes, such as seahorse, shells, and dolphin shapes to be incorporated into links and chains, which is popular with many Italian lines. The style is whimsical but not corny.

The nautical theme is another perennial favorite, in particular mariner style links and twisted anchor rope looks. Although high polished versions are traditional, the latest links are more likely to be textured, even oxidized, in keeping with the current trend toward more burnished, antiqued precious metals. Exaggerated and larger size mariner links also are appearing, sometimes even made from other materials or gemstones which are then incorporated into the links.

Much like what happens in ready-to-wear, the links and chains that appear strong for resort will continue through spring and summer selling. This is part of a bold gold look, reminiscent of such statements popular in the 1970s, but more likely similar to the tailored precious metal looks of the late 1950s into the 1960s. It’s all part of a status signature look, one that has been defined over the years by brands such as Hermes and Gucci. Versions of those links are returning in mixed metals and textures.

What usually follows the nautical chain look is a more terrestrial feeling. Indeed, equestrian looks, resembling bridles and bits, are a strong best for return as well. Riding up alongside the equestrian looks are other design motifs pulled from hunting and other outdoor sports. Horses, hunting, sporting dogs, and all the accoutrements of these leisured sports make ideal sources for these chains. If this country club and hunt lodge concept sounds to you like something right out of a Ralph Lauren store, you’re right on target.

GARDEN PARTY

Although Ralph Lauren is celebrating the 40th anniversary of his multi-billion business built upon interpreting the lifestyles of the country club and leisure set, it is the real old money style that is inspiration for a resort trend that will be one of the mainstays of 2008 fashions. The last time the “preppie look” was big in fashion was in the 1980s when it lingered around for several years. For fall, the return to WASPdom was evident in the more tailored, dressed up looks. Those continue, but are now doused with a preppy color palette and fun, frolicsome prints. Think Lilly Pulitzer (or even today’s socialite turned designer, Tory Burch). Garden, tea and pool party looks gleaned from such WASP hangouts such as the Hamptons, Palm Beach, Newport, Nantucket, and Saratoga will be flowing into stores. Such garden party looks were prevalent on the spring runways in New York City.


18k gold brooches

Arunashi’s 18k gold brooches (worn in hair) with more than 102 carats of Mexican fire opals with diamonds and sapphires. Dress: Cavalli. Model: Jenny B., Next Models. Stylist: Erika Piekarski.
Hair: Ellen Lawlor for Artist Coop. Makeup: Flora Kay for Artist Coop. Photographer: Tim Rich.

porthole and helmet 18k gold pendants
Nautilus for Old World Chain porthole and helmet 18k gold pendants.
Thistle & Bee gold and shell giftware.
Thistle & Bee gold and shell giftware.
jellyfish pearl brooch
Autore Portuguese Man of War jellyfish pearl brooch.
Thistle & Bee enamel octopus pin.
Thistle & Bee enamel octopus pin.
Sevan stingray brooch.
Sevan stingray brooch.
coral reef cuff
Nautilus for Old World Chain coral reef cuff.
Gucci 18k gold signature link cuff watch.
Gucci 18k gold signature link cuff watch.
18k gold charm bracelet
Monica Rich Kosann family memento inspired 18k gold charm bracelet.
hunt club motif jewelry
Caroline Van Den Berg hunt club motif jewelry.
Jingirian 18k gold link necklace.
Jingirian 18k gold link necklace.
Susanna Salk’s book on WASP style
A Privileged Life, Susanna Salk’s book on WASP style with covergirl icon CZ Guest (Assouline 2007).
tricolor 18k gold and sapphire daisy chain necklace
Janet Deleuse tricolor 18k gold and sapphire daisy chain necklace.
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