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ELEMENTS OF THE STYLE

• Volume continues to add drama to silhouettes, but unlike fall, where structure was so important, for spring, it’s softer and more slouchy.
• Classics like plaid, stripes, and chintz florals are used in more casual and comfortable fabrics and silhouettes.
• Shirt dresses, the classic figure-flattering silhouette, refitted in short to long.
• Return of the hostess look: fun, flowery casual wear that is dressed up a bit “for when company comes over.” The look returns for tea parties, garden parties, weddings, and other daytime occasions where traditional formalwear is too much.
• The success of the dress has also reinvigorated the shirt and blouse business, creating opportunities to coordinate separates and a greater need for jewelry and accessories.
• Continued importance of accessories, especially the handbag from large bags to clutches. Emphasis is on the details especially hardware, leather texture, and color.
• Shine and sheen continue, with silvery, pewter, and metallic grays being most important. Ellen Campuzano of Fashion Facts Folio notes that as fall 2008 approaches more burnished looks, especially in yellow gold, bronze, and rose gold, will emerge in apparel and accessories.
• Footwear: Classic Chanel-inspired looks with oversized gold chain details on shoes and handbags.

A TEA PARTY INVITATION

Whether it’s hip hop stars such as OutKast rapping about tea party chic, or the return of afternoon high tea on the high society circuit, the lifestyle associated with the patience and tradition of a tea service is back in vogue. Ralph Lauren championed the look on his spring runway as well as at his company’s 40th anniversary bash.

ELEMENTS OF THE STYLE

• Tea and garden party florals were one of the few places where bright colors of all hues were combined in single outfits.
• Ruffles at hemlines, necklines, and sleeves. Short skirts, tunics, and sundresses.
• Does anyone still wear a hat? Yes, lots of wide brimmed, floppy, and droopy sun hats in straw or fabric. Hats were de rigueur in San Tropez last summer and hats made frequent appearances on runways.
• Even footwear takes a garden party direction with the return of the espadrille, even Bass Weejuns. Patent leather returns only in an array of colors. Heels range from skinny to chunky with platforms, wedges, and ballerina interest.
• Modern treatments with large-scale florals strategically placed on garments rather than all over.
• Ombred color effects that are so strong in color and boldness they resemble abstract florals. Examples: gowns at Zac Posen and Christian Lacroix.
• Using floral looks to soften minimalism’s structure or volume, such as Balenciaga and Dries Van Noten.
• Merging with previous season’s medieval influence, the garden inspired looks take on an enchanted forest feeling—complete with fairies and other whimsical beasts.

Seen on the runways: Ralph Lauren, Diane Von Furstenberg, Dolce & Gabbana’s impressionistic florals, Roberto Cavalli’s oversized flowered gowns, Junya Watanabe, Miuccia Prada’s fairy queen inspired prints.

GRAPHIC EFFECTS

Florals are everywhere, but bold, abstract designs are equally strong. Most were prints, but some were ikat and batik-inspired prints that mimic wovens. Graphic effects were delineated in two strong ways, sometimes overlapping depending upon what fabrics or how designers layered the pieces. The first was bold, abstract designs often influenced by important Abstract painters and interior designers. The other trend relied upon tribal inspired designs, many of them blown up in size to emphasize the shape and symmetry. These tribal looks fell into two directions, too. One was an African inspired look. Many runway shows combined tribal beads and other jewelry in layers. Another look was more natural Earthy Mother looks reminiscent of 1970.